Review
An evening meal at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester
Thursday 2nd Oct

A cheery, firey little local taster from  Barbajuan (I believe), consisting of packets of grated cheese, pepper,wheat, salt and then boiled, made a splendid introduction to our early evening meal at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester .This was to be an evening of moderate, consumption but with extravagant, memorable tastes delivered to our table by assuredly pleasant staff who did so with considerable courtesy and the right amount of attentiveness.

I started with a curiously coloured Egg and Crayfish dish that I was at first a little hesitant to try because it had the look of a banned substance-chocolate. But I found a magnificent combination of wild mushrooms , nantua sauce with generously sized and meaty crayfish-the soft boiled egg melding comfortably with the sauce. My companion chose the Tarte de Legume. A glorious piece of culinary engineering utilising the skills of the finest of pasty chefs to produce a subtle  wafer thin pastry, decked with raw and cooked vegetables and a fresh herb condiment . She tried to convince me that it was a great, possibly the best tasting Tarte Legume ever - but for me the portions were a little too delicate and I remained confident that I had already chosen the best from Ducasse.

We both plumpted for the fish-despite considerable temptation from the Limousin Veal or the Tournedos de boeuf et foie gras rossini.Those of a certain age may remember affectionately a dish with a similar-ish name from the seventies. I said my meal was superb and the fish dish confirmed it. I ordered seared sea Scallops with apple and quince. The scallops were magnificent-marsh-mallow like in texture- one light crunch and you burst through the texture releasing an abundance of the truly finest flavour. Alain  Ducasse affirms the importance of great ingredients to make great cuisine and there they were on my plate -and plenty of them.Tasting the scallops, then the quince was a real novelty- followed by just a little discussion later about how clearly one should  detect the apple or  the quince when in the presence of such a master taste. I have rarely enjoyed such a dish before.

Luckily my companion insisted she had enjoyed a superlative Halibut and comparisons with other fine West End establishment Halibuts were made, even a Parisian one. I was delighted because in the past, in her company and on more than one occasion-whilst I might have chosen with great skill or daring a great starter or main course, her dish would remain part eaten, or worse require more attention from the kitchen . Here she had ordered braised Halibut, courgettes and baby artichokes accompanied by a rather splendid lemon-caper sauce. We both agreed it was an outstanding combination which  I was permitted to sample. But when using the words - tour  de force-I was greeted by a knowing look - rather than the fawning appreciation I had expected from the waitress. Clearly mine was not an uncommon response here but admittedly it was in very dusty schoolboy French.

By 8.30 the dining room was full-save the elegant and beautifully illuminated private dining area which became full an hour later. There was no talk and no sign of concerns about the Wall Street rescue plan, behind us for the moment, as more and more smartly dressed rather than formally dressed diners were served. There was of course at least one famous face and very early in the evening (on the table next to us) a stray mobile phone that luckily became silent at just one withering glance from my  companion).

I took a minute or two to leave the restaurant and walk through the foyer and I was soon reminded that I was in a busy, bustling west end hotel with dozens of people  waiting for tables to take a light if not gourmet evening meal. Back to my table I was greeted by an excellent sorbet and the mood was much more relaxing .We were out of sight and sound  of London's Park Lane, no rush of bodies however elegantly clad making for the exit-just gentle chatter and the occasional sound of a cork popping, cutlery being replaced between courses etc. After then for me-the cheese course. All four cheeses including a good soft, camembert were accompanied by a fruit or spicy companion-plus the tactful suggestion as to the pecking order-literally.

That was a fabulous finish-demanding resistance to hugely attractive possibilities from desirable desserts -including coco-caramel, Baba au rhum (as in Monte) or the chocolate gianduja. We took coffee, declining some excellent gourmandises and made our exit by 10.15pm. Once more into Park Lane and a balmy night typical of summer rather than early October.

I enjoyed the visit from start to finish. Blessed by good company (and one should not underestimate the culinary importance of this) I can honestly say, this was a memorable and wholly justifiable extravagance. An amazing evening.

Cost per person -(not including wine)
Appetiser-fish or meat-dessert £75

There was a Tasting Menu £115 per person - but I can not imagine the waistline that goes with such an intake -but then I am no longer in my early life and that might make a difference.