Southwark

By London Bridge Station on the South Bank of the Thames

Southwark Cathedral - photo courtesy DB

Southwark Cathedral (properly known as the Cathedral Church of St Saviour and St Mary Overie) emerges defiantly from the steel and concrete underbelly of London Bridge and from the surrounding warehouses, carparks and market stalls.

It is a magnificent building dating back to the 12th century, (and is thus probably London's oldest Gothic building), and is well worth a visit inside and out. Its greatest treasure is the Early English Choir, with 5 bays and a triple arcaded clerestory, together with a magnificent retro-choir from the same period.

The cathedral's treasures include a Jacobean communion table and a figure of a Knight from the 13th century.

Southwark Cathedral has literary connections with Gower, Geoffrey Chaucer, Shakespeare and Dickens - all of whom lived in the streets around Southwark. Edmund Shakespeare - younger brother of his more famous relative - is buried here.

It is also the place where John Harvard (he of the American University fame) was baptised in AD1607, having been born in the nearby parish. (Did YOU know that his mother kept a pub here......) The Harvard Chapel has been lavishly decorated as a result of gifts from American members of the famous university of his name.

Just a short way along the shore of the Thames from the Cathedral lies the Golden Hinde (a replica of the original Tudor ship - see separate entry) and a view of the City of London which is fascinating.

The surrounding borough of Southwark was London's first "Theatreland". The Globe, the Rose and the Swan theatres were all situated here - being as popular as they were they attracted huge crowds of people who visited the area. Bankside was also the place where the City of London worthies sought their pleasure - bear baiting, cock fighting and "ladies of the night" were all available near Southwark Cathedral in Elizabethan times. The ladies of the night were also known as the "Bishop of Winchester's Geese" because the Bishop was responsible for licensing them - and taking his "cut" for the privilege of doing so.

In Mediaeval and Tudor times the good worthies of the City of London sought their entertainment (in all its forms, from theatre performances to ladies of the night...) in this part of London, and Bankside became and Southwark a byword for shady pleasures. The narrow lanes and old buildings still evoke powerful sensations as you wander here - you can imagine Shakespeare and his friends the actors appearing around the next corner at any minute.

You can get refreshments in the Cathedral's own restaurant in the Cloisters (which is great for snacks) and also at the Mudlark Inn.

J Briggs.

Nearest Tube station: London Bridge
Parking difficult.

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